Cebu lechon, region by region

How the towns differ

All three share the same backbone — a whole pig, stuffed with lemongrass, garlic, onion and scallion, and roasted over charcoal until the skin shatters. What shifts from town to town is scale, reputation, and what the roasters are known for: Carcar’s market density, Talisay’s deep heritage, and Cebu City’s restaurant and fiesta showcase (where lechon belly, or cebuchon, has taken off).

Wherever it’s from, the verdict is the same: flavorful enough to eat with no sawsawan, traditionally served with a little seasoned vinegar on the side — never the heavy liver sauce of Luzon.